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Field report – morning of day 1

April 8th, 2011 · No Comments


Field report – morning of day 1
1st paddle out with Jesse – larger sets closing out – timed the sprint and got outside.

Tried for a couple lefts but the waves just had no where to go. Got worked on the inside by some large bombs – good hold down that reminded me to take deep breaths and chill. Jesse said the 2 even larger set waves behind me woulda caught me inside no matter what. Chalk it up to getting wet and de-kooking a bit. Surf tonight.

Swell 4-7ft and closing out – not a great direction.

Water insanely warm.

Air temps – hot in the shade and mind melting in the sun.

Arms already rebelling and complaining.

Stoked.

Now it’s siesta time. Swell photos later.

Tags: surf + skate + snow