Sam George has a new column for surfermag.com. It’s called “Spinning the globe”. His inaugural post starts with the classic/cliche surf trip which we all jokingly imagine as we board planes with the sounds of sleepwalk echoing in our brains.
Too bad it’s not done in blog format with RSS/comments. I’m sure they’d get a lot more mileage out of it.
“History’s first recorded account of a surf trip goes something like this. A surfer embarks on a long, arduous journey to an island where it is reported that the waves are bigger, faster and more powerful than anything he’s seen at home. And did we mention less crowded? The surfer in the old story makes this trip, leaving behind friends, family and responsibilities to travel to this distant place, overcoming many obstacles and hardships, until he finally finds himself on a deserted beach on a faraway island, looking out onto the wave of his dreams.
There he rides like he has never ridden before—he’s never felt more like a surfer. He eventually falls for a beautiful local girl and decides to stay awhile, moving in with his island honey, losing track of the days, the months, just surfing, eating fresh fruit and making love. Before he knows it a whole year has passed and the prime surf season is upon him again. By this time his island gal, once so very accommodating, has grown a tad possessive, and only allows him to heed the call of the rising surf on one condition: that he never again kisses or is kissed by another woman. No problem there, he thinks, as he only has eyes for the waves.”